We were expecting it to be almost freezing when we arrived in Belgrade, Serbia, and while it wasn’t exactly warm we didn’t have to deal with snow and ice which is common at that time of year (mid December). We checked into Hedonist Hostel, a cosy hostel right in the centre of town with spacious dorms and great common areas including a neat little kitchen and a fantastic garden area which would be ideal during summer.

Belgrade has had a turbulent past and the city has been destroyed many times over the centuries. This means that much of the architecture is quite modern and the city lacks the old-world charm of many other European cities I’ve visited. I must admit that after visiting Croatia and Bosnia I had a pretty negative opinion of Serbs. The atrocities I had heard of in the previous countries had saddened me deeply and left a bitter feeling towards the former Yugoslavian state. However, after meeting some wonderful Serbian people and hearing more about the history I began to realise that there is no point in holding on to any bias, as most countries have had some involvement in horrific circumstances at some point in their past (think of the massacre of Aborigines in Australia) and deserve the opportunity to change and rebuild as a better nation. Of course this is much easier for me to say than it would be for a Bosnian muslim who’s family were executed during the Bosnian war, or for a Serb who saw the destruction of their city by NATO forces in 1999. Anyway, enough about  politics and more about what we got up to in Belgrade.

On our first day we joined a walking tour of the city which I’d highly recommend – the guide was fantastic! It started in Republic Square, next to the statue of  Prince Milailo III on his horse and across from the National Theatre. We were told that during the NATO bombings in 1999 The National Theatre opened its doors to the public and continued to put on operas, ballets and plays for the people for only 1 dinar – bringing some joy to the city during the 78-days of air raids.

Statue of  Prince Milailo III

National Theatre

Next we visited the bohemian quarter of Belgrade (or Skadarlija) which was once the home of poor artists, musicians and poets who would visit the kafanas (cafes) and inns to drink, discuss their works and listen to music. Today, the cafes still exist and you can eat and drink and be merry just as the gypsies once did.

Bohemian quarter (Skadarlija)

One of the kafanas in the bohemian quarter

Afterwards we made the ascent to Belgrade Fortress (0r Kalemegdan Park), the ancient citadel that sits atop the hill overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. It is said that the body of Attila the Hun is buried underneath the fortress. The citadel allows for great views around the city and the park is great for strolling around with many fountains, statues and old buildings to take in.

Monument to ‘The Victor’, the Protector of Belgrade

Ada/Sava Bridge

After the tour, a group of us decided to try out a local restaurant recommended to us by the tour guide. The food was incredible and we tried some of the local spirit, Rakia, in a number of different flavours. As it came in tiny little glasses we assumed that it was meant to be drunk all at once, it wasn’t until several later that we noticed someone else just sipping on it that we realised we’d been doing it all wrong, but by that stage we didn’t really care! After lunch we went back to the bohemian quarter to try some of the kafanas and more rakia and then ended up at a bar that served flavoured beer. A great way to finish off an excellent day in Belgrade.

Enjoying the local cuisine 

Rakia 

Flavoured beer

Interesting note:

During the 1990s Serbia suffered from one of the worst cases of hyperinflation in the world. The economy of the country was completely decimated and many people could not afford to buy food or turn on their heating. The government began to print more and more money which resulted in such a huge level of inflation that the price of products increased 5 quadrillion percent. In the end the government were printing money worth 500 billion dinars!

500 billion dinar note

I didn’t get much of a chance to sample the famous nightlife of Belgrade, although I did have a great night out at a packed salsa bar in the centre of town alongside some fellow travellers. Anyone else got any advice on the best clubs to go to?

Advertisements